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New World Guitars

Kenny Hill has been building classical guitars since 1972. His New World Guitars brand was established in the early 2000s to bring easy-to-play, attractive, high quality instruments crafted of the best materials to players at affordable prices.

 

New World Guitar Player P640CNew World Guitar Player P640C »

 

The New World Guitar Player series offers premium solid woods and features at a more accessible price. This Player P640C features a 640mm scale length, with a top of solid Western Red Cedar, solid Indian Rosewood back and sides, and an ebony fretboard. Hard case included.

 

New World Guitar Estudio 650 SFSNew World Guitar Estudio 650 SFS »

 

The Estudio Series guitars look, sound and play like much higher priced instruments, with a select solid wood soundboard. While at a price point attractive to students, these guitars are a good fit for any level of player. This Estudio 650 SFS features a solid Spruce top, laminated Indian Rosewood back and sides, and a Rosewood fretboard. Comes with its own gig bag.

 

New World Guitar Estudio 650 CFSNew World Guitar Estudio 650 CFS »

 

This Estudio 650 CFS features a solid Red Cedar top, laminated Indian rosewood back and sides, and a Rosewood fretboard, with a 650mm scale length. Gig bag included.

See the current selection of New World Guitars at Gryphon Strings »

Building New Banjos for an Old-Time World

Richard Jones-Bamman is more than just a close friend of Gryphon – he was a partner in the business for half a dozen years in the early 1980s, and we’ve kept in touch since those days. A serious historian, musician and academician, he was always keenly interested in the classic five string banjos of the 19th and early 20th centuries. We’ve spent countless hours together examining and talking about those great old-time banjos.

His new book is a fine exploration of contemporary makers of instruments that have captivated a new generation of traditional old-time banjo players, many of whom choose gut or nylon stringing, fretless fingerboards and other vintage appointments.

Building New Banjos for an Old-Time World

Artisans building musical instruments and community

building-new-banjos-book-450Banjo music possesses a unique power to evoke a bucolic, simpler past. The artisans who build banjos for old-time music stand at an unusual crossroads–asked to meet the modern musician’s needs while retaining the nostalgic qualities so fundamental to the banjo’s sound and mystique.

Richard Jones-Bamman ventures into workshops and old-time music communities to explore how banjo builders practice their art. His interviews and long-time personal immersion in the musical culture shed light on long-overlooked aspects of banjo making. What is the banjo builder’s role in the creation of a specific musical community? What techniques go into the styles of instruments they create? Jones-Bamman explores these questions and many others while sharing the ways an inescapable sense of the past undergirds the performance and enjoyment of old-time music. Along the way he reveals how antimodernism remains integral to the music’s appeal and its making. He also delves into the omission of African Americans–the originators of the banjo–from both the instrument’s popular history and the nostalgia engendered by the music, and the role contemporary banjo builders are playing to rectify this situation.

“The issues raised by Jones-Bamman and the information he provides to aid in their discussion have never been brought together in one volume. A significant addition to the literature.” –Bob Carlin, author of Banjo: An Illustrated History

“Completely unique in his focus on present-day banjo makers and the cultural significance of the banjo for builders and players today. Jones-Bamman shows us how the banjo taps deeply into conflicting ideas about modernity and the USA’s checkered past.” –Timothy J. Cooley, author of Surfing about Music

Paperback, measures 6 x 9 inches. 288 pages. 33 black & white photographs, 5 line drawings. Published by University of Illinois Press, ISBN 978025208284.

About the Author:
Richard Jones-Bamman is emeritus professor of music at Eastern Connecticut State University.

Buy ‘Building New Banjos for an Old-Time World’ »

Shop Banjos at Gryphon »

Koa Crunchtime: Ukulele Restoration

This koa Maui ukulele has a pretty significant top crack, and cracked back brace.

First I’m going to glue up this crack, before it gets any worse.

We make pretty much all the clamping cauls from scratch here at Gryphon- there’s a huge variation of repair jobs, we often make the caul as part of the job. The caul keep things all on the same plane, and enables the clamps to be good and tight without denting the wood or finish. It has a cutout for small uke bridges and fits most small body contours. I then add a block to focus the tension in this isolated area.

Next up is reinforcing that top crack. I made a faceted diamond cleat out of Koa seen here. It’s a little thick at the moment, but I will sand it a bit once it’s in place to clean it up and make it look a little more at home.

I missed the shots of installing the cleat, but here it is in place.

Now I can start working inside. I have a homemade magnetized flashlight ideal for this type of thing. It frees up a hand, and that’s especially useful when dealing with a small instrument with a small soundhole.

Now we’ll take a look inside and see what’s going on.

Apart from the messy glue residue from manufacturing, there’s a pretty nasty broken brace. (It’s not too bad, but the limited access is what makes it tough). We usually use the StewMac scissor jack for this type of thing on guitars, but with something this small it limits your options.

I’m going to have to make something to wedge between the brace and the top, and then clamp from the outside to close it up. Before I start, I take my bendy piece of brass that I notched with 1/8″ increments.. just for a reference point. Then, when I measure the side of the uke approximately where I’m working, I can subtract the height of the brace for a rough idea of how long my wedge needs to be.

Here I’m cutting some bamboo from Frank’s garden. This is strong and bendy and our favorite for this type of job. With a long curved hemostat, I’m able to work it into the sound hole and crank it into place (after a few length adjustments).

Here it is in place.

Now that I feel good about the clamping setup, I want to get some glue in there and then put the bamboo back in. Here’s a couple of thin palette knives trying to work some glue into the crack.

Now with the bamboo in place, there’s a good “squeeze-out” as we call it, which indicates a good firm closed joint.

I want to add a clamp on the outside right over the bamboo to make sure it’s as tight as I can get it.

Now I need to clean off the excess glue. Through a small access this is harder than it sounds. This is a trick I learned from Alex Glasser of Iron Horse Instruments. A bendable tube with half a Q-tip in it gets down right where you need it to go.

Here it is in the case, all ready to go.

Thanks for reading!

Frank's Corner: Bridge Pins for 19th Century Guitars

With all the currently available choices in bridge pin material and style, why would I go to the trouble of actually making them myself?

Well, I suppose it’s because I had just a bit of spare time and the equipment to do the job, and as it happened, we were just finishing restoration of some old Martin guitars from around the turn of the last century. So, I thought now would be a good time to make some sets of “era-appropriate” replacement pins.

Bridge pins for those old instruments were not quite like any of today’s offerings, often with larger, more flattened tops. Modern pins just don’t have “that look.”

 

Bridge Pins Closeup

 

The guitar in the photos above is a Martin style “40” from the late 1800s, with its original ivory bridge. No doubt about it, this is an instrument that deserves period-correct fittings.

– Frank Ford

19th Century-Style Bridge Pins for Guitar »

Read more:
Reproducing Vintage Bridge Pins, FRETS.COM

 

The Originality Quandary

“But is it original?”

This question is raised about everything in, on, and around a vintage guitar, from tuners to tailpieces to all parts in between. For those who play their vintage guitar only casually, acquiring the exact match for a missing tuner can be a fun treasure hunt. For guitarists who want their older instrument to play as well as a new one, the quest is often more problematic. How can you improve the function of your vintage guitar without compromising its originality, and thus its value? Just because those lightweight WWII-era tuners are original doesn’t mean they allow you to tune effectively, and you can’t plead originality when your jam mates are always waiting on you. There are some solutions that involve only a small compromise, but sometimes the very best solutions for the serious player require some real “play or preserve” decisions.

It’s unfortunate that some of the most desirable guitars come from periods when the metal parts on those instruments—tuners and tailpieces, for example—were not of the same quality as the woodworking. During the 1930s, this was often due to an attempt to keep prices down on lower models during the Great Depression. A few years after that, war-time restrictions meant higher-model Gibsons and Martins were often equipped with flimsy parts that wouldn’t be found on even the cheapest imports today.

The conflict between originality and function often goes beyond the instruments themselves. Demand for original cases (and the importance of keeping one, no matter how flimsy) brings up an interesting dilemma for those whose living accommodations do not include lots of unused square footage. Sure, you were delighted the original chipboard case came with your vintage J-45, but you’re probably not going to carry your $5,000 guitar around in it. And when you buy a real hardshell case, you then have to store the old one. In many climates, storage in a basement or garage won’t do that cute and old cardboard case any favors. If you have two or three (or more) vintage guitars with original cases, even a modest guitar collection can take up a lot of space. So what do you do? Only collect guitars that are all the same size so you just need one modern case that actually gets used?

The tuners on old acoustics are the component that is most likely to prompt vintage-guitar enthusiasts—at least those who are also players—to “go modern.” That said, adding extra screw holes to the back of a headstock can be a major turn-off to future buyers, so it’s a wise move to save the original gears and add better ones without leaving a trace. Thankfully, you can do just that with a little extra effort. Waverly, Gotoh, and other tuner manufacturers produce excellent 12:1 ratio open-back tuners that are essentially contemporary knockoffs of the iconic Grover G-98s—the tuners gracing the headstocks of some of Martin’s and Gibson’s best models during the “golden age” of American steel-string guitar production. Alas, not all Grover tuners that look like G-98s are of the same high quality. Early Grover versions used on 16″ Gibson L-5 models and on Martin’s 1932/’33 OMs have only a 6:1 ratio, and often have cogs that are soldered in place and can’t be adjusted. Such tuners can frustrate anyone who’s grown accustomed to smooth-turning sealed tuners with a 12:1 ratio, such as Schallers and similar modern-guitar gears.

 

Tuner Replacement OptionsTuner replacement options for a ’45 Martin Guitar D-28

 

Many of the single-unit tuners Martin used on its lower models do not have the same spacing for the mounting screws as newer tuners, but as you can see in the image below, there is a modification to the new tuner plates that will allow you to use the new gears without adding more holes to the back of your vintage guitar’s headstock. While the elongated holes on the new tuner plates are visible when the gears are installed, the screwhead still tightly grips the modified gear and you have modern functionality for your vintage guitar. On top of that, you still have the option to remove the new tuners and re-install the originals should you wind up selling the instrument to a “gotta be original” buyer.

 

Waverly Tuner Modification

 

 

By slightly relieving the edges of the backing plates of the new gears as well (where they come in contact with the headstock), there’s little chance there will be any telltale scars. Similar slotted mounting holes can be used for tailpieces on archtops. Especially during WWII, some archtops were shipped with cheesy lightweight-steel tailpieces that have often succumbed to rust, or pot-metal castings that weren’t up to the job. While you may be able to eventually find the right tailpiece in good condition, you might as well enjoy your guitar during the search by using a new, modified version.

Whether an old guitar in need of improvement is an acoustic or an electric, this is now the formula that the vintage-guitar market’s obsession with originality requires: Improve if you must, but be sure the instrument can be returned to stock specifications with no sign of previous upgrades. As for the question of whether that original, moldy cardboard case is worth keeping, however, you’re on your own.

 

Does your vintage instrument have all of its original parts?
Make an appointment to have it appraised and find out.  Instrument appraisals »

Do you need to get your vintage instrument up and running again?
Stop by our repair department and we’ll diagnose your problem and see what we can do to help you out.  Repair services »

Read more:
Richard Johnston, “Acoustic Soundboard: The Originality Quandary.” Premier Guitar.

1933 Paramount Guitar Style D

In the 1930s, the banjo was fading as a force in popular music and many companies were making guitars with banjo necks in an attempt to keep sales up. This particular instrument is perhaps the weirdest one to emerge from that period. Paramount, one of the leading banjo builders of the time, came up with the idea of making a guitar with a banjo-like resonator and hired Martin to build them. The idea was to make an instrument that had the punch and power of a banjo and the mellower tone of the guitar. Their efforts were basically successful and this guitar/banjo hybrid is simultaneously loud and sweet. Sadly, the world was not very interested in such a thing and Martin only made about 30 of them for Paramount.  More details »

1933 Paramount Guitar Style D (made by Martin)1933 Paramount Guitar Style D (made by Martin)

 

See examples of the Paramount Guitar Style D’s ancestor, the Tenor Banjo »

 

Crunchtime: 1967 D-28 Martin Guitar Structural Repair

I had this 1967 Martin D-28 on my bench a few months ago. It came in with clear packing tape over the damaged area trying to hold loose pieces in place. It looked like it had been in this state for some time, heavy crunch and missing binding.

In this photo you can see what a stunning set of Brazilian Rosewood this is. Lots of color variation, grain definition and interesting structure. It’s worth putting some time into fixing it up.

Once the tape came off, this is what I had to deal with. It turns out some of the damage had been glued up already, which we didn’t know. It was unfortunately glued out of alignment.

Here I am holding a heating element onto the side with mini quick grip clamps, keeping an eye on it with a thermometer, so the glue will loosen up and I’ll be able to realign the crack. My palette knife is slightly camouflaged due to the reflection, but I’m slowly working it in to loosen up the old glue.

Since the back was already loose and all cracked up, I tried to use the damage to my advantage. I got some small clamps through the cracks and the missing binding area in order to clamp the side cracks up. I used flexible cauls on the inside and outside in order to get a nice firm alignment.

With the side cracks glued up, I moved on to gluing the back in place. There were some tiny pieces missing from the side, which I filled in with a little bit of matching rosewood dust mixed with acrylic adhesive.

Here’s a shot of the back being glued back on, where the big clamp across the body is pulling the side in to match the back contour:

Much of the original binding had come loose as a result of the original damage, so I set about cleaning up the channel around the edge, using a chisel to chip out bits of old glue and dirt before regluing the binding:

Masking tape held the binding back in place as I glued it with water-soluble aliphatic resin adhesive.

There was also a good portion of missing back binding, but luckily we had some replacement Martin plastic binding strips. Here I have the outer layer (binding) and inner layer (purfling) laid out and getting fitted to the channel.

The old meets the new.

And is then cut down to match the contour.

Now the major structural work is done, it’s time to start tidying it all up. It’s going pretty well, but the side area has some dips and low spots in the finish where the damage was really bad. I started filling in these low areas by adding small drops of lacquer in the cracks and crevices.

Here’s a shot of the topographical aspect of the surface. As I added material and then scraped it back again, it showed me the lay of the land, and where I needed to add finish.

As I progressed the surface started to level out, and the divots began to disappear.

I added a bit more lacquer, scraped the high spots back, added more drops of finish, and set it aside to dry over the following weeks.

I wiped a little color on new binding section, to match the aged amber lacquer on the rest of the guitar.

Then I was ready to start brushing on some extra coats of lacquer to meld with the existing finish surrounding the damage.

Then I hit it with a couple of new laquer coats from the spray gun to smooth it all out.

And after some finish sanding and buffing, it’s as solid as it was before the damage, and looks almost new again.

Guitar Picks: The Cheapest Way to Change Acoustic Guitar Tone

Acoustic guitarists have a secret weapon for changing their tone: the simple guitar pick. This relatively expensive piece of plastic can do more to change your tone and increase the precision of your playing than any other device or gadget you can buy.

If you play electric guitar there are lots of ways to change your tone, just the tone pot on the guitar plus various amp settings alone give lots of options and those are just the beginning. Descriptions of how to change an electric guitarist’s “signal chain” read like a cross between complex recipes and electrical engineering code, while acoustic guitar players are stuck with their guitar, their strings and not much else. To make matters worse, changing strings is a hassle so if you experiment with nickel-wound tone you can’t just flip a switch and be back to the familiar sparkle and overtones of phosphor bronze.

But switching to a different guitar pick is a quick way to affect your tone. The pick affects every note you play, and it allows you to make critical changes to your sound in just seconds. And compared to anything else you buy for your guitar these “tone components” are really cheap and last for months or even years. Of course picks of different shape and thickness are not a new idea, but in the last few years the range of picks offered has become much greater and a lot more interesting to explore.

Some pick-makers have come up with innovative materials and tweaks that make a big difference not just in the tone a pick produces but in how it affects your playing speed as well. Many of these differences are to the edge of the pick, and if you’ve been playing with a typical celluloid tear-drop shape pick, such as the venerable Fender in heavy or medium gauge, you may find that you’re a more versatile flatpicker than you thought once you start experimenting with heavier (thicker) picks with a beveled edge that contacts the strings. Maybe you won’t be able to tremolo as convincingly as Grady Martin on the opening fills of “El Paso” or keep pace with Django Reinhardt playing “Improvisation 1,” but both your sound and the range of what you can play may dramatically expand. And best of all, your trusty celluloid or nylon pick can always be within reach, and no tools or time are needed to change back to what feels and sounds more familiar.

Several of the pick options discussed here are by Michel Wegen, who makes Wegenpicks by hand in his shop in the Netherlands. While a Wegenpick like the popular “Gypsyjazzpick,” one of Gryphon’s best sellers, isn’t cheap at $15 each, some other picks reviewed here are available from 30¢ to a few dollars. Twenty-five bucks will buy you a wide-ranging arsenal, and you’ll have a lot of fun doing your own tone tests. Lots of heavier-gauge plastic picks have nicely rounded edges, but this is often achieved by tumbling the picks in an abrasive material, while Wegen picks have a distinct bevel on only the leading edge of the tip, which makes a big difference. While the innovative bevels and molded grips in the thicker Wegenpicks are for right-handed players, versions for lefties are also available.

See Gryphon Strings’ selection of Wegen Picks »

 

Some of Gryphon’s most popular pick options:

Wegenpicks Bluegrasspick

Wegen “Bluegrasspick” (pack of four, $15.00) is a 1.4mm thick teardrop-shape pick with nine small holes that provide an excellent grip and reduce the weight. The edge is beveled, but it’s not extreme. If you have trouble dropping picks or having them turn in your hand, you’ll love these!

Wegenpicks Gypsyjazzpick

Wegen “Gypsyjazzpick” ($15 each) is a 3.5mm pick that doesn’t feel nearly that thick thanks to a heavily beveled edge. The grip is indented with diagonal ridges, and if you want to experiment playing faster lines this may help you rethink the relationship between pick weight, or thickness, and speed. Wegen says it’s “designed for loud and bright sound on acoustic guitars.”

Wegen M100

Wegen M100 (pack of three, $15.00) is a 1.0mm thick triangular shape with very rounded points. Wegen describes it as designed for mandolin but popular with guitarists, too. No holes, no grip pattern, but not a slick surface. See other gauges  »

Wegen Bigcitypick

Wegen Bigcitypick (pack of four, $20.00) is a small pick with seven grip-holes and a heavily beveled, rounded tip.  Designed for acoustic jazz and blues, this small lightweight pick works for other styles as well and yields a nice bright tone. Looks a lot thicker than it feels when you’re playing with it. Great pick to start with if you want to get used to a thicker pick. Available in 1.4mm, 1.8mm, or 2.2mm.

More Wegen Picks »

 

Other picks to consider, available in our Palo Alto shop:

Primetone Picks

Primetone Sculpted Plectra “semi round” (pack of three, $6.95) is made by Dunlop. This hand-burnished pick is similar to the Wegen M100 with rounded points.

 

Dawg Picks

“Dawg” pick ($1 each), is one of the first thicker picks with a heavily rounded tip, designed by David Grisman ages ago. Try this pick if you’re working on your tremolo on either mandolin or guitar.

 

Gator Grip Picks

Alex’s favorite flatpick is the bargain of the lot. He prefers the 30¢ Dunlop “Gator-Grip” in the familiar tear-drop shape and a full 2.0mm thick (in black). The alligator-head logo imprinted on the matte surface provides plenty of grip, and you have the choice of playing with either the slightly rounded point or the very rounded shoulders. Available in a range of color-coded thicknesses.

Stop by the store to try out our full variety of picks for yourself!

What is a "Torrefied" Guitar Top?

Players seek out vintage guitars not because they’re old but because they sound great. When I play an old guitar I notice that the notes just seem to pop, that it takes very little effort to get the strings to respond to my pick. Also, I hear the tone as having a certain clarity with a strong fundamental and well-defined overtones. As well- made as new guitars are, and I truly believe that modern guitars are built as well as they were in the past, they just don’t have that “vintage” tone. Until now. About a decade ago, luthiers began experimenting with tops that had been subjected to extreme heat, a process known as torrefaction. I’ve played guitars from a  number of builders made with torrefied wood and they all have the dry, woody tone I associate with vintage guitars.

Torrefying, or thermo-treating wood is not a new idea. The concept has been around for centuries, making charcoal is a crude form of torrefaction, but it’s only recently that more sophisticated methods have been developed.  The shortest summary of the process is that the wood is heated over an extended period in an oxygen-free kiln (which allows the use of high temperatures without the wood catching on fire).  This “cooks off” the oils and resins that normally take many years to diminish as newly harvested wood dries and ages. The theory is that a torrefied soundboard comes close to replicating the cellular structure of the top of an old guitar. Along with sounding more like a vintage guitar, torrefied wood is also more resistant to swelling or shrinking when exposed to climate changes. On guitars given a natural finish, a torrefied spruce top has a somewhat darker color.

What makes the use of torrefied wood on new guitars somewhat confusing is that most guitarmakers have given the process their own term, so here’s a short list of words or phrases that essentially all mean the wood has been subjected to the same thermo-treatment process. Collings calls their torrefied tops “baked,” while Martin calls it “VTS” (which stands for Vintage Tone System). Taylor is using torrefied Sitka spruce tops on their new 600 Series acoustics, calling the spruce “specially aged.” Dana Bourgeois, one of the pioneers in using torrefied wood, calls it “aged tone” and other builders use terms like “roasted” or “acoustic resonance enhancement.”

Collings D1A Traditional guitar with a "Baked" Adirondack Spruce top.

 

Martin Guitars

 

Taylor Guitars

 

Pre-War Guitars

 

Some of Gryphon’s current selection of guitars with torrefied tops:

Collings Guitars

Ask the typical guitar picker about high-quality fretted instruments made in North America and the brands you’ll hear will probably be household names: “Gibson, Martin, Fender, Taylor, gee, Guild, but wait, some Guilds are now imported, and let’s see, there’s that newer guy with three names, Paul Reed Smith…” Of course the in-crowd types will probably mention Collings, but often we find that the people who know about Collings flattop acoustics, or Collings electrics, or Collings mandolins are those who actually own one. Why is that? For a music store that primarily sells fretted instruments, such as Gryphon, Collings is one of the top three or four brands, right behind, and sometimes ahead of, those high-production names you see on headstocks all the time.

 
It’s odd the Collings brand isn’t better known because Bill Collings has been making guitars sold through retailers like Gryphon since 1989, when he rented commercial space in Austin and hired two helpers (that’s just a few years after Paul Reed Smith got started). Well-known performers, such as Lyle Lovett, have been performing with a Collings hanging around their neck pretty much ever since. Early Collings dealers, and Gryphon was one of the first, recognized that Bill excelled at not only playability and impressive volume, he also made sure his crew spent the extra time needed to insure impressive “fit and finish.” Throughout the 1990s, Bill’s acoustic flattops were often hard to get and his production numbers grew with no compromise in quality. During one of my visits to a larger Collings workshop outside Austin in 1995, I noticed a sign posted above the set-up station that read “Do the Ding, Do the Time.” In other words, if a member of Bill’s crew put a scratch or a ding in the finish, that same guy had to do what was needed to make the guitar perfect again. Throughout these early years Bill Collings’ version of the iconic herringbone-trimmed rosewood dreadnought, the D2H, was in constant demand.

Among discriminating flattop guitar players Collings reputation was secure by the late 1990s, and Bill’s success making fully carved archtop guitars, essentially by hand, led him to tackle Gibson-style mandolins with carved tops and backs. Within a few short years Collings versions of the iconic F-Style mandolins were appearing on bluegrass stages along with Collings dreadnought guitars.

For mandolin pickers who didn’t need a mandolin the same shape as Bill Monroe’s, the Collings A models were much more affordable while still delivering similar tone and volume. Soon a line of lower-cost mandolins, with low-gloss finishes and less binding and inlay, brought Collings quality to a wider range of players.

After years of focusing on Martin-style flattops, by this time Collings had also branched out with “slope-shoulder” D models (the CJ, for Collings Jumbo) and a smaller L-00 style called C10. More traditional 12-fret flattops with slotted headstocks were also trickling out of Austin, a nod to much earlier American guitar styles, but made for steel strings and the more rough-and-tumble life that modern flattops often face. By the early 2000s Collings offered a dozen different guitar body shapes in numerous styles and with a seemingly endless range of wood options.

This impressive growth was because Bill had enlarged his second workshop several times and had a crew of over four dozen builders. Both Bill’s guitars and his mandolins had been out long enough to have a solid reputation: Collings instruments held up, you could travel or tour with them, they didn’t need constant tweaking to be optimally playable. Sure they were made with beautiful wood and were finely finished, but a Collings guitar or mandolin was also tough. With an impressive line of flattop guitar models in over a half-dozen different shapes, two body styles of fully carved mandolins with either f or oval soundholes, wasn’t it time for Bill to settle down and focus on upping production and wider distribution?

Not hardly. After building a new shop in 2005, just a few miles from the old one, in 2006 Bill Collings introduced his first electric guitars.  You’d expect Collings would start with solid-body models only, but Bill’s long affair with arched-top guitars came shining through in new thin hollow-body models as well. Within a short half-dozen years Collings had a line of different electric guitar models, and price ranges, to rival manufacturers who’d been focused solely on electric guitars for decades. Gryphon tries to stock a representative group of Collings electric models, but as the time between ordering one and taking delivery can be several months we’re sometimes out of stock of certain models.

But despite dozens of different models, Collings guitars were all relatively “high end” by most people’s standards and developing more affordable models was the next challenge. After all simple guitar designs with less decoration, and thinner, low gloss finishes had sustained American guitarpickers during the hard times of the Great Depression, why not rely on the same formula using modern wood-working technology to keep the quality far higher than it had been 80 years ago? Using the best of the 1930s “budget brands” as inspiration, the first Waterloo acoustic flattops were introduced in 2014.

OK, we’ve talked about how much Collings Guitars has grown since the 1980s, even a glance over the links above will give you good sense of how many different Collings models are now available, but what about that opening question: Why isn’t the Collings brand better known?  A quick summary of 2016 production is probably the best answer.  The Martin Guitar Co., for instance, builds over 10,000 guitars per year, all flattop models.  By contrast, last year the Collings crew produced just over 1200 flattop acoustics, plus 560 electric guitar models and about 320 mandolins.  The new lower-priced Waterloo acoustics added another 970 guitars, but that still leaves a total of only about 3,000 instruments per year.  When you consider that Collings now employs 90 people, it’s obvious that there is a lot of old-fashioned labor in each instrument, despite state-of-the-art woodworking machinery and designed-in-house tooling.  There’s no other way to get the fit and finish Collings is known for, and that quality translates to both the sound of the instruments and their legendary dependability.

— Richard Johnston

Gibson K-2 Mandocello restoration

This is a Gibson K-2 Mandocello from 1920. These were built much like their little brothers in the A style Mandolin family – with one small brace by the sound hole. Mandolin tops typically hold up, but with the heavier strings and wider surface area, the K-2 tops struggle to keep their arch. According to Frank and Richard, it’s pretty standard for the top to collapse on the K-2’s as a result of the light bracing.

Here’s a video showing the extent of the damage on this one, keep an eye on the reflected light to see the dimples and concavities around the bridge area. The top has cracked and completely let go.

After the top gave up, it looks like someone had to shim the bridge up half an inch to make it play at all. This also shows how flat the top is now. We’ll try to fix that, but first..

Here’s a tricky crack to fix. Lots of curves, and needs clamping pressure from multiple angles.

I made a little caul to match the sound hole radius, with a flat portion so we can pull it to the straight edge of the treble side. The downward pressure is more of a challenge, how about the chuck on the milling machine?

Here’s a handy wooden dowel in the chuck, took a minute to find the sweet spot but it lined up nicely.

Pushing down on the top, and pulling the two halves together on the mill table.

Here’s what you like to see : glue squeeze out all along the crack.

Now the plan is to remove the back, and jack the top back up with a second brace. This brace will have more radius than the top does, and by clamping and gluing it in place we’ll get a bit of the arch to come back. Here’s a time lapse of me removing the back. Proof again that taking things apart is always faster than putting them back together.

Here is the only original brace, you can see why the top caved in. I’m recycling my caul from before to glue down one side of this brace. 

Here’s the new brace getting shaved down to match the style of the original. Unfortunately I can’t seem to find photos of the brace going in..

Here’s the brace all shaped up, with a couple ultra-thin cleats on some top cracks.

Now to get the back glued on. The sides are slightly relaxed now that the back has been removed, and nothing really lines up. So here are some cool “bench clamps” Frank made that you drill into the bench and apply pressure from all sides.

Once they’re all in place we can line the pieces up and glue them back together. Couldn’t we have fit a couple more clamps on there?

It went together well and got new frets and set up.

 

A Smiling Skull From a 1940’s Decal Haunts Two Guitars

My favorite uncle gave me his home-repaired guitar when I was in college. A black paint job hid the Bondo he’d used to smooth out damage from a detached bridge. A mismatched tailpiece and floating bridge restored a sad semblance of functionality.

Introduction by Harold Fethe

I carried that guitar around for sentimental reasons until one night when Bill Drennan, my college roommate, explained to me that it was something called a “herringbone Martin.” I raced over to a drugstore near the dorm and bought some bottles of nail polish remover. When the black paint came off, Drennan was right–a Martin 00-21 from the 1940’s.

Years of searching for a trustworthy restoration expert finally led to the Gryphon gang. They repaired that double-O and even gave me $100 discount in lieu of the Martin lifetime warranty. Martin doesn’t really cover reversal of repairs done by relatives who are sports car mechanics, you know. I gave it back to my uncle when he retired.

Bill Drennan recently lost his battle with cancer. His wife wanted me to have his best guitar–another Martin, a D28 he’d bought shortly after college. I accepted with immense gratitude. It got new life from a refret-and-reset cycle at Gryphon, but that didn’t seem quite enough. I decided that the skull image from the decal on my uncle’s old Martin would be a fitting acknowledgment of the education I got from Drennan–something like a bus transfer, so Billy’s spirit could come along for the rest of the ride. After consulting for several months with the Gryphon shop, Beth Drennan, and a graphic arts company, we had a reincarnation of the smiling skull.

Pictured below: before the bridge damage and black paint, my uncle Pat Moore with the 00-21 in his heyday.

Pat Moore with his 00-21 and Skull decal

Pat Moore with his 00-21 and Skull decal.

Below, the black paint is stripped off and I’m still bewildered.

Harold and the now busted 00-21

Harold and the now busted 00-21.

Martin 00-21 pat moore headstock

Headstock detail.

Skull artist rendering from original picture

Artist rendering from original picture.

Frank Ford and James Hingston take the handoff from here:

So Harold brought us this interesting project, and we’ve been scratching our heads wondering how to go about doing the inlay justice, both physically and narratively. We were given the artwork to replicate in the pearl.. and the level of detail involved was what made Frank think twice before just grabbing the inlay saw.. here’s the image.

Artwork

Artwork.

Harold requested that the inlay be no bigger than an inch wide. So the teeth are the main problem.. how do we get the inlay small enough, while preserving the level of detail in the artwork?

Frank happens to have a pantograph at his home shop. He thought this would be a fun way to actually use it!

The way a pantograph works is to have an original with the overall shape and pattern established. Using a parallelogram structure, one side of the tool traces the pattern, while the other end cuts out a duplicate. As shown below, the scale can be adjusted.. which is what we’re after.

Animation of a pantograph

By AlphaZeta – Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16115008

So the first step is to use the artwork to make a template. We glued the image to a piece of plexiglass with rubber cement. Then I got to work cutting it out.

Cutting the perimeter on the bandsaw.

Cutting the perimeter on the bandsaw.

Then I used a variety of sanders and files to dial it in.

Sanding the edges smooth

Sanding the edges smooth.

The oscillating spindle sander gets into the tight curves.

The oscillating spindle sander gets into the tight curves.

Once satisfied with the overall shape, I brought it back to my vise to cut out the interior details. First I drilled holes through each shape. Then I ran the inlay saw blade through the hole and proceeded to rough in the shapes.

Tidying it up with a round file

Tidying it up with a round file.

Next came the teeth. Using an engraver, I dug into the acrylic making a big enough groove for the pantograph to trace.

Engraving the teeth

Engraving the teeth.

Teeth after engraving

So the template is ready, Frank and I took a field trip to his home shop to put it on the machine. Here’s a video of the pantograph in action. We increased the speed of the footage, because we’ve watched too many longwinded shop videos. Thanks A.J.!

Now it’s time to rout it into the peghead.

Checking the depth.

Checking the depth.

Getting it centered.

Getting it centered.

Tracing the outline with a sharp blade.

Tracing the outline with a sharp blade.

Routing the peghead.

Routing the peghead.

Dropping it into place

Dropping it into place.

Adding the black filler to the interior

Adding the black filler to the interior.

Fitted and ready to sand and add some lacquer

Fitted and ready to sand and add some lacquer.

Check back in a week or two for an update… the lacquer is drying upstairs in the meantime!